Kefi: a Greek word which translates roughly to English as "a rush of feeling that can only be expressed through singing or dancing." Unlike those stereotypical plate-shattering Greek restaurants such as those off of Boulevard St. Michel in Paris, Kefi on the Upper West Side is Michael Psilakis' more subtle intepretation on this state of grace. Instead of concentrating on a theatrical atmosphere, Mr. Psilakis concentrates on the food. The result is something rather special, and though its small, intimate, subterranean rooms might prove such revelry to be a bit difficult, Kefi has enough spirit and intimate romance to open the walls as well as your mouth to receiving an evening of convivial company, blissful cocktails, and of course, food that is worth celebrating.
Kefi is tucked down and away on a lovely but lonely block on 79th Street between Broadway and Amsterdam. Though I first was a bit lost, convinced that it would not be on a street across which I had walked hundred of time without noticing it before, I was happily proven wrong. Indeed Kefi was right there, happily and invitingly welcoming diners down a small flight of stairs to a large door that opens to a space decorated in light wood and deep navy blues. At the end of a short and cramped hallway, the back room opens to a small space with rows of modest, small tables. White fabric runs along the ceiling in undulating waves about chatty diners in small, intimate gatherings. This bustling room is a fesitval in itself, where the beautiful epicurieans of the Upper West Side come to taste a bit of Greece, throw back an ouzo or five, and drift away from the city under the guide of a handful of handsome, Grecian waiters.
Though the restaurant takes neither cash nor reservations, one would have thought we had paid off the reservations host when we were seated inside a personal, four-person dining alcove outside of the main room. The alcove, with a small, round pine table, navy blue walls, a strip of white moulding and a photograph of a statuesque goddess, was made rather private by two windowpane walls with an open doorway in the middle. The room was in need of something soft, like a celing fabric as was found in the main dining room, to keep the loud echo from invading conversation, but overall the intimacy of the room made it feel as though it were a world apart from the hot, summer city outside.
The whole menu was as mouthwatering as it was affordable; we ordered three courses, with plenty to share. Our charming and friendly waiter suggested the Roditis Momewasios Momemvasia white wine, 2004; upon first taste, notes of citrius and pear left a refreshing, crisp and dry finish on my toungue, and I began to understand why the restaurant had been given its name. The cocktail we ordered was even more impressive: the Gin and Tear was a perfect nod to the traditional gin and tonic, but spiced to Greek perfection with fennel syrup, and beautfully decorated with a layer of anise seeds at the bottom of the golden-green drink.
We started with the Greek salad, which despite its generous dressing, was a refreshing prelude to our foray into Greek cuisine. With fresh, creamy chunks of feta cheese, salty kalamata olives, and flecks of oregano, the salad was begging to be relished, and every last drop of Olive Oil to be wiped up with bread. We gladly obliged. The second appetizer, the Sheep's Milk dumplings with Lamb Sausage in Tomato sauce, was a surprise and an absolute delight. The dumplings were scrumption little squares with a soft and thin dougy outside, inside of which was a thick, creamy Goat's cheese that just barely melted by the heat of the dish. The sausage was outstandingly fresh and meaty, which was complemented perfectly by the red tomato sauce and well-portioned fresh sauteed spinach. The whole dish felt like it had been prepared by a loving -- and well-trained -- Greek Yiayia, and as I finished my last bite, I immediately began making plans to visit her again.
For entrees, the men ordered the two homemade pasta dishes, while the women kept exploring the meze. S.K. had a delightful Sheep's Milk Ravioli in a butter and sage sauce, which same with crisply fried tendrils of sweet onion. Brian's order of Hilopites kouneli, Flat pasta with Pulled Braised rabbit and Graviera Cheese, was quickly and heartly enjoyed; it was cooked in a red sauce that looked similar to the dumplings, and was finished by wiping bread to clear the plate to white. Hannah the Feta sto fourno, pita, Warm Feta with Tomatoes, Caper, Anchovies and Feta; it also came with beautifully fresh haricots verts, dressed in a delicious and savory olive oil. Upon recommendation before arriving at Kefi, I tried the Otapodi stin sxara, revithia, fasolia, tomates liastes: the Octopus and Bean Salad. The small plate arrived with one large, curling tentacle on top of a small mound of fresh white chick peas and white beans, to my friends' surprise. It was perhaps the best cooked octopus I have ever tasted: the outside skin was cooked to a perfect crisp to that the inside was still moist and chewy that the external toast served as a perfect compliment to the pure meat inside. The skin gave way to my knife, especially where the suction cups were larger, allowing me to taste the meat in its pure and delicious form. The bean salad was a lovely, fresh compliment to the heavy tentacle meat; the beans were fresh and al dente, whereas the bits of dried tomato gave a summer heartiness that made the little herbed salad rather elegant and savory.
The dessert menu is sparse, but absolutely do not ignore it. Though sorbets and gelatto might be the boring part of any dessert menu, at Kefi, they are certainly center stage. With gelato flavors as exotic as sesame seed, the one sorbet, rasperry port, is a sophisticated compliment. We all tasted the Poached pear dessert, which was a delightful surprise. The pear, made into a sort of violet-brown paste with chopped walnuts, was at the center of a nest of phyllo dought strands, with a bit of the sensual sorbet The rich, buttery nest fibers of the phyllo dough were offset well by the sorbet, balancing the heavy and the light to balance the dish and send us on our way, happy and satiated, with enough room left to dance and to sing.
About $25/person for shared three courses and a drink. I highly recommend going either for an intimate date or with a small group of friends to enjoy the handsome and friendly waitstaff and the elegant homey atmosphere ; the portions are satiating without being overwhelming, and the prices are generous. The food is excellent overall, and I will absolutely be returning for more. Opa!!
Kefi
222 W79th Street
btn Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue.
212/873.0200
Cash Only
No reservations
Try nine recipes from Kefi chef Michael Psilakis, care of Food & Wine magazine: Michael Psilakis's Recipes
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