PART THREE: London
A ride? I didn't even see the London Eye. Neither did I get to see Big Ben, nor the House of Parliament, the Tower of London, or Westminster Abbey. But I did have a peek at London Bridge from the Millenium Bridge, and I did happen to fall upon Buckingham Palace after tea at another palatial spot, the Wolseley.
My three journeys into town were made with the earnest intention to find the heart of London. And then, after walking around Chelsea for a few hours and finding it not that much different from New York, I begged Naomi: "But where is the heart of London?" She looked at me, exhausted, and said: "Where is the heart of New York?" I had to think for a minute, as visions of New York's neighborhoods came into view... Times Square, Fifth Avenue, SoHo, the Upper West Side, Columbus Circle, or perhaps Central Park... New York's plethora of neighborhoods dumbfounded me with too many possible hearts, and all that I could say was, "Well, I suppose I don't know." With her point firmly proven, Naomi told me: "This is the heart of London, Amanda. If you can even say that the city has a heart. It depends. You shouldn't ask me. I'm not even a Londoner, I'm more of a New Yorker now."
And so, two New Yorkers began to wander the streets of London, with little but a tube map, an eye for fashion, and an insatiable appetite. I think I mildly succeeded in finding London's heart, and if anything, I would say that, very much like New York, the heart of London is underground, on the ground, all around.
The King's Road to the Raj's Table
Chelsea is a rather posh neighborhood in southwest London in the Royal Borough of Chelsea and Kensington. With streets lined with trees and multi-million-GBP townhouses, it is no surprise that the SW3 postal code on your home address label is a seal for bragging rights. Chelsea and Kensington seem to run seamlessly into one another, with Knightsbridge (think Harrod's) and South Kensington to the Northwest. The main thoroughfare in Chelsea is the King's Road, which begins from Sloan Square in Knightsbridge. The King's Road is Chelsea's high street of high fashion, decorated with an assortment of shops from pret-à-porter couture to charming and fun little gift shops (a genre of shop that London does extremely well). Pop off the Tube at Sloane Square, and head up the square to browse along the King's Road with the Chelsea Girls and Boys.
Cheslea Girls are stylish, and they know it. With sexy shoes, sleek sunglasses, and big handbags that scream "PradaGucciFendiPucci," the Girls walk up and down the King's road, popping in and out of shops and taking the occasional respite for a skinny-cappuccino or a glass of champagne. But for those to whom the mention of "Tom Ford" brings to mind American assembly-line industrialism and reliable cars, don't fret -- Chelsea is yours too for a stroll alongside these maidens of mode. There are plenty of affordable shops and restaurants all along the King's Road; two places for a quick and cheap bite are Pret à Manger and EAT., both right next to the other at the beginning of the road. Naomi and I stopped off for a quick lunch at Pret. To my happy surprise, my "Bread-less sandwich" was an exceptionally fresh salad of mache and arugula greens, ripe red tomato slices, buttery mozzerella cheese, salty olives, and toasted pine nuts. Not bad for "fast food."
Once you tire of the King's Road, there are charming side streets that, in my opinion, are more fun to explore than the Road itself. Take a turn onto Godfrey Street and have a look around the beautiful townhouses owned by Russian millionaires. Make your way to the end of Godfrey Street to Cale Street, and you will find a sweet little triangular opening with little shops and a breath of fresh air. Cath Kidston is a happy shop where those who love color can find beautiful things to brighten the home. The shop is teeny, but the colors and patterns are big; everywhere you look, patterns of polka dots, roses, stripes and stars (and any combination thereof) dazzle the eye and make your mouth water for summer watermelon at the beach.
With our arms full of shopping parcels and our stomachs empty and ready for a meal, we hopped underground to for dinner in Covent Gardens at Mela, a bright and elegant Indian restaurant with food from all over Britain's former colony. The restaurant is painted a warm goldenrod-yellow hue to complement the wooden decor. As you enter, the kitchen to your right is busy with chefs preparing rich and fluffy naan bread and tandoori meats; the whole restaurant is fragrant with cumin, coriander and oil, which makes it all the more a challenge for us to wait for our food.
Mela's menu is extensive, and divided into vegetarian and non-vegetarian selections of Starters and Mains (Tandoor and Curries). The side dishes must not be overlooked, and there are plenty of choices for rice and bread. For those wishing to sample the menu, the 3-course Table D'Hôte has vegetarian and non-vegetarian selections, priced at £29.95 and £36.95, respectively.
The kind and patient waitstaff checked in with us regularly as I scoured the menu for our meal. We began with Matar Aur Adrak Bhari Aloo Tiki, two small, fried potato patties with mashed green peas and spiced with ginger. The two spicy patties were lightly covered in an auburn tamarind sauce and a fresh yogurt sauce drizzled across the bottom of the plate, with sprinkles of cool, green mint that cleared the palate of the hot spices. We loved these intricate little pea-patties so much that we ordered an additional plate to come with our main course. When everything arrived, our table was filled with copper pots and white plates filled with colorful and fragrant food: Murgh Tikka Makhanwala, Suki Miloni Subzi, Jeera Pulao Rice and Roti. The Murgh Tikka Makhanwala, the traditional favourite known simply as chicken tikka, consisted of small pieces of chicken marinated all day in yogurt and spices like cardamom, fennel and cumin. These pieces were then delicately to retain their succulent moisture. Served in a sauce of creamy tomatoes spiced with fenugreek, this dish achieved an excellent balance of spice, savoury and sweetness. This excellent sauce was lapped up with fragrant Jeera Pulao rice and rich, buttery whole-wheat roti bread. The Suki Miloni Subzi -- a side dish that I ordered as a main, much to our waiter's surprise -- was a very hearty, large portion of snow peas, cauliflower, broccoli, baby carrots, tomatoes, potatoes and fava beans that were cooked in a rich, brown spice paste of tamarind and asafoetida. This was my ideal Indian dish: rich, savoury and spicy Indian flavours with a mouthwatering variety of fresh vegetables. What struck me most about this dish was its freshness; far too often, the heavy spices of Indian cuisine battle with the raw ingredients, which render the vegetables rubbery and defeated by curry, coriander and chili. But this side-dish-made-main-dish was a stunning example of how, in the hands of an expert, attentive and careful chef, a dish's flavour and complement -- not overpower -- the ingredients from which is it made.
***
Cath Kidston
12 Cale Street London SW3 3QV
+44 (0) 20 7584 3232
www.cathkidston.co.uk
Mela
152-156 Shaftesbury Avenue
London WC2H 8HL
+ 44 (0) 20 7836 8635
www.melarestaurant.co.uk
***
From Tate to Tea
After our romp through Chelsea, I had a bit of a feel for the city, but I was far from satiated. That night, comfortably nestled in the Hope's blue guest room, I suddenly felt that perhaps my idea of seeing London "as a Londoner" would keep me from actually seeing the city as it was intended to present itself to tourists such as me. I was craving culture in the form of red double-decker buses, crowned jewels, bobbies and high tea. And yet I simultaneously felt a pang of guilt: I couldn't possibly stomach the idea of making Naomi tour London with yet another friend come from America to ride the London Eye. I spent the night concocting an un-tour of London in my dreams.
So the next day, I proposed a mini-tour: the Tate Modern and then high tea at a place of Naomi's choosing. Naomi conceded with grace, and kindly came up with a little itinerary for us to see as much as possible without riding atop a bus. We would amble around the Tate Modern, take a peek into St. Paul's Cathedral, have a stroll along the South Bank, and then take Tea at The Wolseley followed by a walk into Green Park. I was thrilled, wearing my flats and ready to walk, eager as ever to see this Tate Modern that was so iconic to me.
And then I discovered that the Tate Modern was, if nothing else, an old factory relic of England's industrial age. It was an overcast day -- the first and only of my trip --, which foreshadowed the rather gloomy art that was contained inside London's modern art museum.
The best part of the Tate Modern was crossing over the uber-modern Millennium Bridge. As we crossed the wide, expansive River Thames, I felt for a moment as though I were in an enlarged and grossly modernized/industrialized version of the River Seine. For four months over a year ago, I crossed the Seine daily over the historic Pont de la Concorde to the great square of the Revolution. Now, I was crossing a very new and very metallic bridge to a place of artistic revolution, which purportedly held some of the world's greatest modern and contemporary art collections. One look at the Tate Modern Museum's map would have one believe such a claim to be true: a whole room of Roy Lichtenstein?!? Up to the fourth floor, yes please!
Once inside, we discovered that yes indeed, it was a whole room. A whole room of a Roy Lichtenstein. Oh, but there was also an awkward mobile inspired by the one, single, mediocre work of exploding fighter jets (forgive me, Mr. Lichtenstein). Disappointed, we headed over to the Rothko Room for some cheering up. But the Rothko collection proved to be similar: one dark room of a single series of murals done by Rothko on commission to a restaurant The Ritz in New York, a commission which he broke after he realized that his paintings (inspired by the cloistered enclosures of brick walls) would not at all inspire feasting and merriment. The paintings themselves are magnificent, but in the context of the dark, dank museum proved to be oppressive and overwhelming. After a good forty minutes of putting up with my search for meaning in the modern museum world, Naomi made her confession of visceral distaste for the Tate's cold steel-concrete-and-wood structure. To which I wholeheartedly agreed. I have a great deal of respect and awe for the Tate Modern, but I ultimately felt that its structure was too much a distraction away from the art, and the organization of the works was too disjointed to allow for museum-goers to wander pensively through the galleries.
Hungry and irritable, we decided to forego the walk along the South Bank, pop over to St. Paul's Cathedral at the other end of the Millennium Bridge, and then take a cab over to the Wolseley for lunch and tea. St. Paul's Cathedral is where Prince Charles and Lady Diana were married on July 29, 1981, and where Queen Victoria celebrated the religious service of her Diamond Jubilee in 1897. The Cathedral is unquestionably worthy of these two important royal events, as the Cathedral itself possesses an architectural noblesse and grandeur in its present form, the fifth incarnation of the Cathedral since pre-Norman times in the seventh century A.D. The enormous cupola is a beautiful and impressive feature of the structure, which makes it seem to stretch high upward almost infinitely into the grey London skies. However, the Cathedral did present a certain finitude for me; at £9.50 per person entry into the Cathedral (19.00 USD), I decided that I'd rather keep the hefty "donation" and spend it on scones with clotted cream and raspberry jam.
The Wolseley is a spectacularly opulent restaurant in St. James on the famous London Boulevard, Picadilly. The building was originally designed in 1921 as a car showroom for Wolseley Cars Limited in high Florentine and Venetian style. What ensued was an extraordinary and elegant building which now serves as a restaurant for high society, posh society and tourists hoping to get a taste of English society. This is the place to forget that the USD/GBP exchange rate is two-times in favor of the pound. Order with one finger firmly covering the menu prices and the other pointing outward as you daintily stir your imported Indian and Chinese tea with a silver spoon and sip away the afternoon from delicate, porcelain cups.
With high tea thirty minutes away, Naomi and I arrived at without a reservation, so we were happily seated in a side room outside of the chatty, theatrical main dining room. Disappointed as we were to miss the goings-on of society, we settled like proper princesses into our seats and ordered the French-inspired menu. We both began with soup: Naomi chose a creamy, chartreuse-hued seafood soup, and I chose a chicken and dumpling soup in a chicken consomme broth. The broth of my soup was delightfully rich for a consomme, and the tiny bread dumplings bobbled about in penny-sized balls among sparse leek slivers and a few quarter-sized pieces of chicken. The soup was of perfect temperature, just warm enough to thaw the cold left within me by the Tate Modern.
Following the soup, we each ordered a small Roast Chicken and Tarragon Salad. These were served in cone-like bowls, brimming with delicious mache greens and dotted with juicy red cherry tomatoes and crisp scallion slices. The chicken was incredibly succulent and moist; its freshness reaffirmed my decision to abandon my post-Gourmet Magazine article decision to not eat chicken. The dressing was a rich vinaigrette spiced with curry, which brought out the sweetness of the greens and the buttery flavour of the chicken. By the end, we were happy and full -- but tea was on its way.
The Wolseley offers two options for high tea served daily from 3.30pm to 5.30pm, and on Sundays all day until 6.30pm: The Cream Tea and the Afternoon Tea. Afternoon Tea is served on a three-tiered tray with Assorted Finger Sandwiches, Currant Scones, and a Selection of fine Pastries to complement your choice of tea served in heavy, polished silver pots. The Cream Tea is a one-plate version of the Afternoon Tea, with simply the essentials: tea and three fluffy scones and a tiny server with a cup of clotted cream and raspberry jam. Naomi and I ordered one to share between the two of us, with a pot of tea for each. The scones were heavenly; the moist, cake-like flour was rich with sweet butter on the inside, with a crisp yet supple crust outside. The scones opened warmly in half at the command of our fingers, and soaked up the rich clotted cream and tender raspberry jam. Each morsel of scone-cake brought me closer to feeling like a Duchess dressed in silk skirts and a velvet overcoat.
***
The Tate Modern
Bankside
London SE1 9TG
+44 (0) 20 7887 8888
www.tate.org.uk
Gallery Hours:
Sunday – Thursday, 10.00–18.00
Friday and Saturday, 10.00–22.00
Last admission into exhibitions 17.15 (Friday and Saturday 21.15)
The Wolseley
160 Picadilly
London W1J 9EB
+44 (0) 20 7499 6996
www.thewolseley.com
***
Designer Deli Dishes in Notting Hill
When I told Matthew that Naomi and I had spent the day pottering about Notting Hill, he described this West London neighborhood in the Royal Borough of Chelsea and Kensington as that neighborhood in which: "one puts on makeup to take out the bin."
The neighborhood is undoubtedly one of, if not the trendiest spots in London. A host of celebrities live or have townhouses here, including Stella McCartney, Mick Jagger, Richard Curtis and (according to Naomi) Madonna. The average price for renting a flat or a house seems to be between £600 and £1,758 -- keeping in mind, for the American audience, that the GBP is twice as strong as the dollar. This massive peak in prices occured after the release of a certain little romantic comedy that took its name from the neighborhood in which it was filmed. Notting Hill, once a run-down immigrant neighborhood, was in the middle of a 20-year gentrifrication process when the film instantly boosted this little neighborhood to stardom. It is little surprise that there is as much frustration as there is awe with the "The Notting Hill Set," the "Trustifarians" and "the Notting Hillbillies," who include the wealthy young professionals and media people who are priviledged enough to live here. The streets are clean and charming, the houses are immaculately maintained, and there are ample sundries about town that range from your standard Boots pharmacy to Vintage record shops, and designer boutiques to the famous Portobello Road and antique flea market. I was immediately swept up, into, and around the sunny streets of Notting Hill, where Naomi and I passed away a happy afternoon by saying "ooh" and "ahh" as we popped in and out of shops and became inspired by the possibilty of one day having a house with a navy blue door in W11. For now, I'll settle for a flat on a street just on the neighborhood's border called Ladbroke Grove.
Get off the Tube at the Notting Hill Gate stop, a beautiful, brick interior station with hanging planters that spill out lush, green, manicured foliage. You'll know immediately that you have arrived at Notting Hill. When you exit the station, turn onto Pembridge Road, and follow it until you reach a turn down onto Portobello Road.
Every Saturday, the antique shops of Portobello Road and traveling antique / oddities caravans pour out onto the street to sell their wares. This is one of the world's most famous markets, which is also a favorite place where Paddington Bear would potter about, and upon which "Bedknobs and Broomsticks" starring Angela Lansbury was filmed and sung about in 1971: "Portobello road, Portobello road / Street where the riches of ages are stowed. / Anything and everything a chap can unload / Is sold off the barrow in Portobello road. / You’ll find what you want in the Portobello road." The street is charming, even on a weekday afternoon when the market is not up. It is worth the stroll all the way down, but if you fancy a turn for a nibble or a handbag, take left at Westbourne Grove.
Westbourne Grove opens up widely to a main thoroughfare in the neighborhood, with designer shops aplenty and two noteworthy places to eat. 202 Cafe at Nicole Farhi has outdoor seating right on the street where people go to see and be seen, and a little indoor part inside the shop next to open windows looking onto a garden. We decided not to eat here because all of the outside seats were taken, and inside the music was too loud and too much like a European fashion show for us to be able to enjoy our brunch. It was, however, the top recommendation of all the local shopkeepers.
But thanks to the lovely staff at Ted Baker (a shop with clothes that are so humbly stylish that I would like to buy the whole store), we discovered Tom's Delicatessen, the perfect mix of kitch and class. Tom's is a nod to the old-time general store; in the front is a mish-mash of candies and treats, with gourmet sandwiches and pastries to take away. Downstairs is the deli and salad bar -- but this is not your typical turkey-on-rye deli and iceberg lettuce with all the fixin's salad bar. The deli serves top, imported meats, cheeses, and beautiful "free-er than free range eggs," while the salad bar features bowls of salads composed of fresh vegetables, meats and cheeses. Each is crafted to hold its own, and no two are seasoned or spiced similarly.
What makes this candy-apple-red gourmet general store so appealing to sit-down diners is (second to the food, of course) the garden out back and the little terrace out from the dining floor where breakfast and lunch can be served under grey London skies. The interior is designed in 1950s Americana-diner-style, and outside is outfitted as a complementary 1950s Americana-garden-party theme. Be sure to spot the teapot sculpture in the corner by the stairs.
The menu at Tom's Delicatessen is a bruncher's dream -- the breakfast menu is served until noon, after which the delightful and varied lunch menu takes over. The food is an interesting and eclectic mix of influences; there is traditional English food done with a Mediterranean spin, like the sausages and beans. These were served with a heaping spoonful of lentil salad instead of traditional beans, and finished with a hot, peppery spice. Tom's is celebrated particularly for its breakfast egg offerings like the caviar-garnished scrambled eggs with salmon, or the perfectly poached eggs benedict. Bread does not come with your meal, but do order the bread basket for £1.50, which comes with white bread, brown bread and multigrain. Save room for dessert -- the millionaire's bar is perfect for satiating your sweettooth, and the coconut macaroons are perfect for dunking in tea.
While the service at Tom's was lamentably slow, the waitstaff was very kind and friendly. This is a perfect spot for a tasty lunch -- don't be in a rush, just take a terrace seat and enjoy.
***
Nicole Farhi, 202 Cafe
202 Westbourne Grove
London W11 2RH
+44 (0) 20 7727 2722
Tom's Delicatessen
***
I was at first rather intimidated by London. Unlike New York and Paris, it seems to be an unbounded expanse of industrial city that stretches for miles and dissapears into unfamiliar neighborhoods. I found myself constantly checking for traffic in the wrong direction, despite the kind signs on the roads that are designed to direct your gaze. I felt more like a foreigner in London than I did in Paris, a sensation that struck me as truly odd considering that there is no language barrier. But ultimately, my heart was warmed to London, and on my last train back from King's Cross back to Hitchin, I found myself regretting my departure from both the city and the island nation. I know that I will return someday soon, perhaps for a more permanent stay one of London's many neighborhoods that are its heart, so that I may amble there for longer than just an afternoon.
- Introduction: Journey to the Heart of London
- The King's Road and the Raj's Table
- From the Tate to Tea
- Designer Deli Dishes in Notting Hill
- The King's Road and the Raj's Table
- From the Tate to Tea
- Designer Deli Dishes in Notting Hill
Introduction: Journey to the Heart of London
Everyone said, "Take a ride on the London Eye."
Everyone said, "Take a ride on the London Eye."
A ride? I didn't even see the London Eye. Neither did I get to see Big Ben, nor the House of Parliament, the Tower of London, or Westminster Abbey. But I did have a peek at London Bridge from the Millenium Bridge, and I did happen to fall upon Buckingham Palace after tea at another palatial spot, the Wolseley.
My three journeys into town were made with the earnest intention to find the heart of London. And then, after walking around Chelsea for a few hours and finding it not that much different from New York, I begged Naomi: "But where is the heart of London?" She looked at me, exhausted, and said: "Where is the heart of New York?" I had to think for a minute, as visions of New York's neighborhoods came into view... Times Square, Fifth Avenue, SoHo, the Upper West Side, Columbus Circle, or perhaps Central Park... New York's plethora of neighborhoods dumbfounded me with too many possible hearts, and all that I could say was, "Well, I suppose I don't know." With her point firmly proven, Naomi told me: "This is the heart of London, Amanda. If you can even say that the city has a heart. It depends. You shouldn't ask me. I'm not even a Londoner, I'm more of a New Yorker now."And so, two New Yorkers began to wander the streets of London, with little but a tube map, an eye for fashion, and an insatiable appetite. I think I mildly succeeded in finding London's heart, and if anything, I would say that, very much like New York, the heart of London is underground, on the ground, all around.
The King's Road to the Raj's Table
Cheslea Girls are stylish, and they know it. With sexy shoes, sleek sunglasses, and big handbags that scream "PradaGucciFendiPucci," the Girls walk up and down the King's road, popping in and out of shops and taking the occasional respite for a skinny-cappuccino or a glass of champagne. But for those to whom the mention of "Tom Ford" brings to mind American assembly-line industrialism and reliable cars, don't fret -- Chelsea is yours too for a stroll alongside these maidens of mode. There are plenty of affordable shops and restaurants all along the King's Road; two places for a quick and cheap bite are Pret à Manger and EAT., both right next to the other at the beginning of the road. Naomi and I stopped off for a quick lunch at Pret. To my happy surprise, my "Bread-less sandwich" was an exceptionally fresh salad of mache and arugula greens, ripe red tomato slices, buttery mozzerella cheese, salty olives, and toasted pine nuts. Not bad for "fast food."
Once you tire of the King's Road, there are charming side streets that, in my opinion, are more fun to explore than the Road itself. Take a turn onto Godfrey Street and have a look around the beautiful townhouses owned by Russian millionaires. Make your way to the end of Godfrey Street to Cale Street, and you will find a sweet little triangular opening with little shops and a breath of fresh air. Cath Kidston is a happy shop where those who love color can find beautiful things to brighten the home. The shop is teeny, but the colors and patterns are big; everywhere you look, patterns of polka dots, roses, stripes and stars (and any combination thereof) dazzle the eye and make your mouth water for summer watermelon at the beach.With our arms full of shopping parcels and our stomachs empty and ready for a meal, we hopped underground to for dinner in Covent Gardens at Mela, a bright and elegant Indian restaurant with food from all over Britain's former colony. The restaurant is painted a warm goldenrod-yellow hue to complement the wooden decor. As you enter, the kitchen to your right is busy with chefs preparing rich and fluffy naan bread and tandoori meats; the whole restaurant is fragrant with cumin, coriander and oil, which makes it all the more a challenge for us to wait for our food.
Mela's menu is extensive, and divided into vegetarian and non-vegetarian selections of Starters and Mains (Tandoor and Curries). The side dishes must not be overlooked, and there are plenty of choices for rice and bread. For those wishing to sample the menu, the 3-course Table D'Hôte has vegetarian and non-vegetarian selections, priced at £29.95 and £36.95, respectively.
The kind and patient waitstaff checked in with us regularly as I scoured the menu for our meal. We began with Matar Aur Adrak Bhari Aloo Tiki, two small, fried potato patties with mashed green peas and spiced with ginger. The two spicy patties were lightly covered in an auburn tamarind sauce and a fresh yogurt sauce drizzled across the bottom of the plate, with sprinkles of cool, green mint that cleared the palate of the hot spices. We loved these intricate little pea-patties so much that we ordered an additional plate to come with our main course. When everything arrived, our table was filled with copper pots and white plates filled with colorful and fragrant food: Murgh Tikka Makhanwala, Suki Miloni Subzi, Jeera Pulao Rice and Roti. The Murgh Tikka Makhanwala, the traditional favourite known simply as chicken tikka, consisted of small pieces of chicken marinated all day in yogurt and spices like cardamom, fennel and cumin. These pieces were then delicately to retain their succulent moisture. Served in a sauce of creamy tomatoes spiced with fenugreek, this dish achieved an excellent balance of spice, savoury and sweetness. This excellent sauce was lapped up with fragrant Jeera Pulao rice and rich, buttery whole-wheat roti bread. The Suki Miloni Subzi -- a side dish that I ordered as a main, much to our waiter's surprise -- was a very hearty, large portion of snow peas, cauliflower, broccoli, baby carrots, tomatoes, potatoes and fava beans that were cooked in a rich, brown spice paste of tamarind and asafoetida. This was my ideal Indian dish: rich, savoury and spicy Indian flavours with a mouthwatering variety of fresh vegetables. What struck me most about this dish was its freshness; far too often, the heavy spices of Indian cuisine battle with the raw ingredients, which render the vegetables rubbery and defeated by curry, coriander and chili. But this side-dish-made-main-dish was a stunning example of how, in the hands of an expert, attentive and careful chef, a dish's flavour and complement -- not overpower -- the ingredients from which is it made.***
Cath Kidston
12 Cale Street London SW3 3QV
+44 (0) 20 7584 3232
www.cathkidston.co.uk
Mela
152-156 Shaftesbury Avenue
London WC2H 8HL
+ 44 (0) 20 7836 8635
www.melarestaurant.co.uk
From Tate to Tea
So the next day, I proposed a mini-tour: the Tate Modern and then high tea at a place of Naomi's choosing. Naomi conceded with grace, and kindly came up with a little itinerary for us to see as much as possible without riding atop a bus. We would amble around the Tate Modern, take a peek into St. Paul's Cathedral, have a stroll along the South Bank, and then take Tea at The Wolseley followed by a walk into Green Park. I was thrilled, wearing my flats and ready to walk, eager as ever to see this Tate Modern that was so iconic to me.
And then I discovered that the Tate Modern was, if nothing else, an old factory relic of England's industrial age. It was an overcast day -- the first and only of my trip --, which foreshadowed the rather gloomy art that was contained inside London's modern art museum.
The best part of the Tate Modern was crossing over the uber-modern Millennium Bridge. As we crossed the wide, expansive River Thames, I felt for a moment as though I were in an enlarged and grossly modernized/industrialized version of the River Seine. For four months over a year ago, I crossed the Seine daily over the historic Pont de la Concorde to the great square of the Revolution. Now, I was crossing a very new and very metallic bridge to a place of artistic revolution, which purportedly held some of the world's greatest modern and contemporary art collections. One look at the Tate Modern Museum's map would have one believe such a claim to be true: a whole room of Roy Lichtenstein?!? Up to the fourth floor, yes please!Once inside, we discovered that yes indeed, it was a whole room. A whole room of a Roy Lichtenstein. Oh, but there was also an awkward mobile inspired by the one, single, mediocre work of exploding fighter jets (forgive me, Mr. Lichtenstein). Disappointed, we headed over to the Rothko Room for some cheering up. But the Rothko collection proved to be similar: one dark room of a single series of murals done by Rothko on commission to a restaurant The Ritz in New York, a commission which he broke after he realized that his paintings (inspired by the cloistered enclosures of brick walls) would not at all inspire feasting and merriment. The paintings themselves are magnificent, but in the context of the dark, dank museum proved to be oppressive and overwhelming. After a good forty minutes of putting up with my search for meaning in the modern museum world, Naomi made her confession of visceral distaste for the Tate's cold steel-concrete-and-wood structure. To which I wholeheartedly agreed. I have a great deal of respect and awe for the Tate Modern, but I ultimately felt that its structure was too much a distraction away from the art, and the organization of the works was too disjointed to allow for museum-goers to wander pensively through the galleries.
The Wolseley is a spectacularly opulent restaurant in St. James on the famous London Boulevard, Picadilly. The building was originally designed in 1921 as a car showroom for Wolseley Cars Limited in high Florentine and Venetian style. What ensued was an extraordinary and elegant building which now serves as a restaurant for high society, posh society and tourists hoping to get a taste of English society. This is the place to forget that the USD/GBP exchange rate is two-times in favor of the pound. Order with one finger firmly covering the menu prices and the other pointing outward as you daintily stir your imported Indian and Chinese tea with a silver spoon and sip away the afternoon from delicate, porcelain cups.With high tea thirty minutes away, Naomi and I arrived at without a reservation, so we were happily seated in a side room outside of the chatty, theatrical main dining room. Disappointed as we were to miss the goings-on of society, we settled like proper princesses into our seats and ordered the French-inspired menu. We both began with soup: Naomi chose a creamy, chartreuse-hued seafood soup, and I chose a chicken and dumpling soup in a chicken consomme broth. The broth of my soup was delightfully rich for a consomme, and the tiny bread dumplings bobbled about in penny-sized balls among sparse leek slivers and a few quarter-sized pieces of chicken. The soup was of perfect temperature, just warm enough to thaw the cold left within me by the Tate Modern.
Following the soup, we each ordered a small Roast Chicken and Tarragon Salad. These were served in cone-like bowls, brimming with delicious mache greens and dotted with juicy red cherry tomatoes and crisp scallion slices. The chicken was incredibly succulent and moist; its freshness reaffirmed my decision to abandon my post-Gourmet Magazine article decision to not eat chicken. The dressing was a rich vinaigrette spiced with curry, which brought out the sweetness of the greens and the buttery flavour of the chicken. By the end, we were happy and full -- but tea was on its way.
The Wolseley offers two options for high tea served daily from 3.30pm to 5.30pm, and on Sundays all day until 6.30pm: The Cream Tea and the Afternoon Tea. Afternoon Tea is served on a three-tiered tray with Assorted Finger Sandwiches, Currant Scones, and a Selection of fine Pastries to complement your choice of tea served in heavy, polished silver pots. The Cream Tea is a one-plate version of the Afternoon Tea, with simply the essentials: tea and three fluffy scones and a tiny server with a cup of clotted cream and raspberry jam. Naomi and I ordered one to share between the two of us, with a pot of tea for each. The scones were heavenly; the moist, cake-like flour was rich with sweet butter on the inside, with a crisp yet supple crust outside. The scones opened warmly in half at the command of our fingers, and soaked up the rich clotted cream and tender raspberry jam. Each morsel of scone-cake brought me closer to feeling like a Duchess dressed in silk skirts and a velvet overcoat.
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The Tate Modern
Bankside
London SE1 9TG
+44 (0) 20 7887 8888
www.tate.org.uk
Gallery Hours:
Sunday – Thursday, 10.00–18.00
Friday and Saturday, 10.00–22.00
Last admission into exhibitions 17.15 (Friday and Saturday 21.15)
The Wolseley
160 Picadilly
London W1J 9EB
+44 (0) 20 7499 6996
www.thewolseley.com
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Designer Deli Dishes in Notting Hill
When I told Matthew that Naomi and I had spent the day pottering about Notting Hill, he described this West London neighborhood in the Royal Borough of Chelsea and Kensington as that neighborhood in which: "one puts on makeup to take out the bin."
The neighborhood is undoubtedly one of, if not the trendiest spots in London. A host of celebrities live or have townhouses here, including Stella McCartney, Mick Jagger, Richard Curtis and (according to Naomi) Madonna. The average price for renting a flat or a house seems to be between £600 and £1,758 -- keeping in mind, for the American audience, that the GBP is twice as strong as the dollar. This massive peak in prices occured after the release of a certain little romantic comedy that took its name from the neighborhood in which it was filmed. Notting Hill, once a run-down immigrant neighborhood, was in the middle of a 20-year gentrifrication process when the film instantly boosted this little neighborhood to stardom. It is little surprise that there is as much frustration as there is awe with the "The Notting Hill Set," the "Trustifarians" and "the Notting Hillbillies," who include the wealthy young professionals and media people who are priviledged enough to live here. The streets are clean and charming, the houses are immaculately maintained, and there are ample sundries about town that range from your standard Boots pharmacy to Vintage record shops, and designer boutiques to the famous Portobello Road and antique flea market. I was immediately swept up, into, and around the sunny streets of Notting Hill, where Naomi and I passed away a happy afternoon by saying "ooh" and "ahh" as we popped in and out of shops and became inspired by the possibilty of one day having a house with a navy blue door in W11. For now, I'll settle for a flat on a street just on the neighborhood's border called Ladbroke Grove.Get off the Tube at the Notting Hill Gate stop, a beautiful, brick interior station with hanging planters that spill out lush, green, manicured foliage. You'll know immediately that you have arrived at Notting Hill. When you exit the station, turn onto Pembridge Road, and follow it until you reach a turn down onto Portobello Road.
Every Saturday, the antique shops of Portobello Road and traveling antique / oddities caravans pour out onto the street to sell their wares. This is one of the world's most famous markets, which is also a favorite place where Paddington Bear would potter about, and upon which "Bedknobs and Broomsticks" starring Angela Lansbury was filmed and sung about in 1971: "Portobello road, Portobello road / Street where the riches of ages are stowed. / Anything and everything a chap can unload / Is sold off the barrow in Portobello road. / You’ll find what you want in the Portobello road." The street is charming, even on a weekday afternoon when the market is not up. It is worth the stroll all the way down, but if you fancy a turn for a nibble or a handbag, take left at Westbourne Grove.
Westbourne Grove opens up widely to a main thoroughfare in the neighborhood, with designer shops aplenty and two noteworthy places to eat. 202 Cafe at Nicole Farhi has outdoor seating right on the street where people go to see and be seen, and a little indoor part inside the shop next to open windows looking onto a garden. We decided not to eat here because all of the outside seats were taken, and inside the music was too loud and too much like a European fashion show for us to be able to enjoy our brunch. It was, however, the top recommendation of all the local shopkeepers.
But thanks to the lovely staff at Ted Baker (a shop with clothes that are so humbly stylish that I would like to buy the whole store), we discovered Tom's Delicatessen, the perfect mix of kitch and class. Tom's is a nod to the old-time general store; in the front is a mish-mash of candies and treats, with gourmet sandwiches and pastries to take away. Downstairs is the deli and salad bar -- but this is not your typical turkey-on-rye deli and iceberg lettuce with all the fixin's salad bar. The deli serves top, imported meats, cheeses, and beautiful "free-er than free range eggs," while the salad bar features bowls of salads composed of fresh vegetables, meats and cheeses. Each is crafted to hold its own, and no two are seasoned or spiced similarly.
What makes this candy-apple-red gourmet general store so appealing to sit-down diners is (second to the food, of course) the garden out back and the little terrace out from the dining floor where breakfast and lunch can be served under grey London skies. The interior is designed in 1950s Americana-diner-style, and outside is outfitted as a complementary 1950s Americana-garden-party theme. Be sure to spot the teapot sculpture in the corner by the stairs.The menu at Tom's Delicatessen is a bruncher's dream -- the breakfast menu is served until noon, after which the delightful and varied lunch menu takes over. The food is an interesting and eclectic mix of influences; there is traditional English food done with a Mediterranean spin, like the sausages and beans. These were served with a heaping spoonful of lentil salad instead of traditional beans, and finished with a hot, peppery spice. Tom's is celebrated particularly for its breakfast egg offerings like the caviar-garnished scrambled eggs with salmon, or the perfectly poached eggs benedict. Bread does not come with your meal, but do order the bread basket for £1.50, which comes with white bread, brown bread and multigrain. Save room for dessert -- the millionaire's bar is perfect for satiating your sweettooth, and the coconut macaroons are perfect for dunking in tea.
While the service at Tom's was lamentably slow, the waitstaff was very kind and friendly. This is a perfect spot for a tasty lunch -- don't be in a rush, just take a terrace seat and enjoy.
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Nicole Farhi, 202 Cafe
202 Westbourne Grove
London W11 2RH
+44 (0) 20 7727 2722
Tom's Delicatessen
226 Westbourne Grove
London, W11 2RH
+44 (0) 20 7221 8818London, W11 2RH
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I was at first rather intimidated by London. Unlike New York and Paris, it seems to be an unbounded expanse of industrial city that stretches for miles and dissapears into unfamiliar neighborhoods. I found myself constantly checking for traffic in the wrong direction, despite the kind signs on the roads that are designed to direct your gaze. I felt more like a foreigner in London than I did in Paris, a sensation that struck me as truly odd considering that there is no language barrier. But ultimately, my heart was warmed to London, and on my last train back from King's Cross back to Hitchin, I found myself regretting my departure from both the city and the island nation. I know that I will return someday soon, perhaps for a more permanent stay one of London's many neighborhoods that are its heart, so that I may amble there for longer than just an afternoon.
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