- Introduction: Nowhere and Everywhere at the Priory; The Vanguard film
- Dining at the Priory
- Local Chinese in Hitchin
- Mediterranean deli delights in Oundell
- More-ish Malteses
Nowhere and Everywhere at The Priory; The Vanguard Film
When I first asked Naomi what town the Priory is in, she had no answer. The address for her family's home is rather complicated;
near Hitchin, in Little Wymondley, Herfordshire, England, postal code, etc. But Naomi best explained her location as "the place between two roads that belongs to neither town bordering it." Such an ambiguous address could only mean one thing: I was going to the middle of nowhere.So to nowhere I went, and I found that I actually landed somewhere, somewhere extraordinarily special.
The Priory is located on six acres of lush green land, which are extremely well-appointed with proper English gardens, a curving moat, Mediterranean flourishes, and fields with over a hundred varieties of trees, including a number of ancient specimens that were planted at the time of the Romans. Even with jet-lag, I knew upon my arrival that I was in a sacred place, one that the Hopes are so very fortunate to call home. It seems to be a place that inspires all sorts of endeavors -- from John's entrepreneurial prowess, to Ann's garden design, their chef Jeff's culinary delights, to Naomi's ambitions in history and in fashion.
Of the many things being produced at the Priory, right now the Priory has become the studio where producer, director, and screenwriter Matthew Hope is finishing up his first feature film, The Vanguard. Set in a post-apocalyptic world, this horror film uses elements of Japanese cinema and what seems like a huge amount of crimson blood to examine how a man from industrialized society might survive in the wilderness as a hunter-gatherer. The film is currently in production, and I certainly anticipate that it will hit the festival circuit rather soon, and then later frighten us all on the big screen. (For more information, look at The Vanguard's trailer on the website, and this interview with Matthew about the film.)
Dining at the Priory
It was over dinners at the Priory that I was able to talk to Matthew and learn about his film, in addition to enjoying the company and laughter of Naomi and the entire family. Though I had my hand at cookery one night by (literally) throwing together a Pasta Pomodoro (see Friday, May 27 2007 for recipe), I was truly fortunate to taste the cuisine of the Priory's chef, Jeff, on two delightful occasions. The first was a three-course dinner, which began with an unusual prawn cocktail wherein small bits of shrimp were suspended in chilled butter and herbs. This appetizer was followed by a delightful chicken dish with roasted vegetables in a hearty sauce. The dessert -- or pudding -- was rather exceptional: pannacotta with lavender syrup, decorated with fresh lavender flowers from the Priory's garden.
Before my departure flight, Jeff once again crafted an elegant two-course meal, which we enjoyed outside on the sunny patio. The first course was a lightly curried cauliflower soup, served with cumin-salted pappadam crisps. The soup had a soft and creamy texture, and was served just warm enough to complement the summer heat. Though one might suspect that a cream soup would be heavy, Jeff's was not -- the soup was light, almost fluffy, and the curry was just enough to linger pleasantly on your tongue before the cream balanced the piquant spices away.The soup was followed by sea bass, beautifully arranged on large, white, deep Gordon Ramsay plates. Two small filets of fresh, pure white bass were placed atop a sampling of green vegetables: short haricot verts, tips of asparagus, and zucchini. Encircled by three boiled potatoes powdered with fresh herbs, the whole plate was brought together by a white, light butter sauce that was subtly flavoured with a hint of vanilla. The dish was cooked so perfectly that the juices of the bass seemed to be infused with the butter sauce. It was a delightful meal that was accompanied by Chimere champagne and a white wine, the name of which I must ask John to remind me.
Local Chinese in Hitchin
Hitchin is a small and charming historic market village in Little Wymondley of Hertfordshire. There are many shops, including a Marks & Spencer's Simply Food, a Waterstone's bookstore, a hand and foot spa, and a delightful little gourmet shop and deli called Halsey's of Hitchin. Halsey's has an impressive selection of cheeses and prepared foods, teas and coffees, and other little cooker's helpers. I was bewitched by their collection of packaged herbs, which included exotic spices like Al Quar-at and organic basil from Egypt, and local peppercorn mixes and lemon lavender sugar.For a casual dinner my first night in England, we went to the local Chinese called Paddyfields, the Hopes' family favourite. Though their reviews that night were mixed, I found the dinner to be a real treat. Everything was shared; we began with mixed appetizers, including chicken satay, spare ribs, bean sprouts, and the very unusual prawn toast -- fried bread encrusted with prawn. Next came duck with plum sauce, which our congenial waiter fiercely and methodically pulled apart from the animal's bodily form into a thousand shreds of succulent, rich meat.
Though just thiry minutes outside of London by train, Hitchin is not a tourist destination, but it is a lovely town in its own right. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the old market comes to life in Market Square where you can potter about and have a look at the old china, antiques, and knickknacks, or buy some local produce from England or the continent. Stop for a coffee at Cafe Rouge, a local chain French cafe that seemed to pop up everywhere I went in England throughout the week. Be sure to stroll around the little stream that curves behind St. Mary's church. Have a peek inside this 14th century landmark, or wander around the large and ancient tombstones surrounding it.
Halsey's of Hitchin
Market Place
Hitchin
Hertfordshire
SG5 1DR
01462 432023
Paddyfields
3 St Andrew Street
Hertford
SG14 1HZ
01992 550582
Mediterranean Deli Delights in Oundle
After having spent two rather exhausting days in a row in London, Naomi and I decided to spend one afternoon locally with her sister who lives about an hour away from the Priory. We decided to meet for a light lunch and go to Oundle (pronounced like "how": ow-n-dle) an affluent and academic village in Northamptonshire.
Oundle is a gorgeous historical village with lovely stone houses that trail along historic and well-maintained streets. The village is perhaps best known for The Oundle School, a rigorous boarding and day school for 5-11, with entry into the sixth form. The school was founded in 1556 by Sir William Laxton (after whom the junior school takes its name), and the stately stone buildings in place today are from the 17th century. If you can, take a peek around the main courtyard, enclosed on one side by regal arches. Of note is the art studio, into which I was able to spy and have a look at some rather remarkable student painting and sculpture works.We three ladies lunched at an elegant and comfortable deli, Smith's at No. 4, in the center of the village around the fountain. The "deli" serves upscale lunch food by which I was duly impressed. The vegetarian platter comes with rich, homemade hummous, salty olives, sweet and savoury couscous salad,
and finger-ready grilled vegetables. The platter appears to be quite small, as each delight comes in a little ramekin no larger than an inch-and-a-half in diameter, but if enjoyed with their delicious bread (white or multi-grain brown) and a simple side salad (with cucumber and tomato, rocket, and my very favorite -- mache!), it becomes a very substantial and healthy meal. The elderflower presse is equally delightful, as are many other other organic presse drinks that are crafted by a local British maker. At the counter, there is ample selection of sweets and savories, from scones and brownies to samosas and fish.Though I myself was unable to try it, a local cafe called Beans on the opposite side of the square is a local favorite. This shop seemed to attract a youngish crowd, exclusive of the school students. Beans is also very well known for its ice cream milkshakes like the Malteser flavour.
The shops around Oundle are elegant and well-appointed. For women wandering about, you must not leave without having a look around Eve, an amazing lingerie shop at the small Bazaar shopping complex on West Street, not far down the road from Beans. Eve carries all the best European lingerie makers, including Princesse Tam-Tam, Elle MacPherson, and Ted Baker. In addition to lingerie, Eve also has a small selection of swimwear.
Smiths at No.4
North Street
01832 270011
Beans
1 New Street
01933 314001
Eve
The Bazaar, West Street
01832 273969
More-ish Maltesers
One night, Ann, Naomi, and I had a long discussion about the delights of British candy as I uncontrollably popped a bag of Maltesers into my mouth. Naomi said: "They're so more-ish, aren't they?" "Moor-ish?" I asked. "What do they have anything to do with North Africa?" "No... more, as in, you can't have enough and you want more, and more, and more." I immediately thought: Once you pop, the fun don't stop.
Word from the wiser: don't pop, just stop. The Brits have an affinity for sweets -- think Willy Wonka -- and they're damn good at their product. Maltesers are little balls of milk-chocolate-crunch-heaven, with crisp wafer inside, and which I swear bears a minuscule piece of caramel that makes heaven crumble in your mouth. BUT, I do have to warn you (though perhaps it is just my own lactose-unfriendly stomach that is forcing me to stage this protest), Maltesers are INCREDIBLY MORE-ISH, and once you go beyond a certain point, the feeling goes from happy-childhood-candy-memories to adult-pass-me-the-Tums-indigestion.
For the alcoholic sweet-tooth in all of us, go for Maynard Wine Gums. Again, pop and stop. You won't get a buzz, just a cavity.
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